By Mejs Hasan
By the end of June, Kajsa FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tby was homesick. The native Swede had just finished a 5-month internship with her countryâ€™s diplomatic office near the UN headquarters in Manhattan, darting between debates on migration and ocean plastic. Now, her parents were pleading for her to hop on an 8-hour flight across the Atlantic and rush home.
But FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tby had a different idea. Putting convenience aside, she opted to glide across the Atlantic on a cargo shipâ€”getting home in what she calls the most â€œklimatsmartaâ€� or â€œclimate-smartâ€� way possible. She arrived in Sweden on Tuesday night, after 12 days aboard the ship â€œLa Traviata,â€� two full days on trains, and a few overnight stays at friendsâ€™ homes.
Cargo vessels sometimes host a handful of cabins for transporting real passengers, tucked away among the sun-dried colors of hundreds of freight containers. FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tbyâ€™s berth, along with meals, cost upwards of $100 a day, a steep price for a student who just completed a degree in political science and economics at Lund University. The ticket included limited internet access, which she used on a shared computer to keep in touch with friends and correspond with WIRED about her trip. â€œI do understand that I, as an individual, cannot make a huge difference,” FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tby writes. “But I hope that by doing as much as I can, I hopefully inspire others to become a bit more environmentally friendly.”
Booking the ticket took perseveranceâ€”months to find an agent, stacks of paperwork, and a doctorâ€™s stamp of good health. Just when everything was set, FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tbyâ€™s voyage was canceled, so she hung around New York City a few more days until her passage was secured on â€œLa Traviata.â€�
But if youâ€™re OK with some surprises, the carbon savings are real, says Tristan Smith, an expert in low carbon shipping at University College London who has himself dreamed of exchanging jetstreams for white-tipped waves. A single, nonstop round-trip trans-Atlantic flight can easily gobble up a ton of carbon dioxide per passengerâ€”about half the annual emissions an individual should aim for if weâ€™re to limit global warming to 2 degrees Celsius. A cargo ship is also highly-emitting, but per ton, it emits a lot less (older ships average only 15 grams of CO~2 for every kilometer it carries a ton of cargo and newer ones average 3 grams.) A passenger hitching a ride is like sticking a feather in a giantâ€™s cap.
The calculations would be more complicated if more people joined FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tby, says Smith. Shipping companies would hurry to launch dedicated passenger ships, crowded with fuel-hungry luxuries to entice customers. But even those ships are on track be more carbon responsible than planes in the future. The shipping industry agreed in April to cut its total carbon dioxide emissions in half by 2050. Today, boats powered by hydrogen fuel, whose only generated â€œtrashâ€� is water, are already slipping in and out of inlets near coastlines; tomorrow, they may be powerful enough to cross entire oceans.
Onboard â€œLa Traviata,â€� FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tby investigated shipping emissions on her own. She inspected the fuel tank, interrogated the crew about the shipâ€™s fuel consumption, and got everyone talking and reading about international climate politics. The cook even joined in by preparing vegan meals. FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tby watched a pod of dolphins leaping and glittering in the sunset, but spotted about as much floating plastic as she did sealife.
Those observations neatly mirrored the issues that drove her internship. At the Swedish Mission to the UN, in addition to her focus on migration and humanitarian issues, FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tby attended negotiations on a new rulebook meant to uphold peopleâ€™s rights to a sound environment through the weight of international law. She was part of a push to reduce the use of disposable plastic items in the officeâ€”a move they then encouraged amongst other UN country missions. Ulrika Ajemark Ã…sland, a colleague of FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tby at the Swedish Mission who worked closely with her on these projects, was in awe of how FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tby chose to travel home, especially given how expensive it was. But her office-mates weren’t very surprised she took a stand. Leif Pagrotsky, the Consul General of Swedenâ€™s New York Consulate, points out that in Sweden, there is a lot of emphasis on environmental consciousness.
Not everyone FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tby encountered was as supportive. After a 14-hour train ride from New York, FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tby arrived in Charleston, South Carolina, where her ship was waiting to depart. â€œPeople think you are really strange when you tell them you are boarding a cargo ship as a passenger and sometimes even start yelling at you,â€� FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tby says. She called six different numbers for port and ship authorities, and no one could tell her where, how, or when to board the ship. The last number finally sent her on a phone chain through three people before a nice guy named Ben came on the line and listed which taxi companies were certified to pass the security and passport control at the port. â€œThe first taxi company yelled at me as well, but the second was very helpful!â€�
Regardless, FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tby is happy with her travel choice. Perhaps her trip will inspire others to take similar steps to curb their carbon emissionsâ€”who then will inspire even more. “Like rings on the water,” she writes, “you have soon reached quite a large part of the population.â€�
After a few days in her cobblestoned university town of Lund, Sweden, FernstrÃ¶m NÃ¥tby will take the train home through forests and lakes to Stockholm. In September, she starts a Masterâ€™s degree in environmental policy at the London School of Economicsâ€”and yes, sheâ€™ll be taking the train there.
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